1 00:00:01,518 --> 00:00:04,664 Good evening, my fellow citizens. 2 00:00:04,688 --> 00:00:08,543 This government, as promised, has maintained 3 00:00:08,567 --> 00:00:10,420 the closest surveillance 4 00:00:10,444 --> 00:00:15,092 of the Soviet military buildup on the island of Cuba. 5 00:00:15,116 --> 00:00:17,928 This is the Cuba I grew up with. 6 00:00:17,952 --> 00:00:20,389 Mankind teeters precariously on the brink 7 00:00:20,413 --> 00:00:22,140 of a thermo-nuclear war. 8 00:00:22,164 --> 00:00:24,517 The missile crisis, duck and cover, 9 00:00:24,541 --> 00:00:26,811 hide under your desk, kids, cover yourselves 10 00:00:26,835 --> 00:00:29,689 with wet newspaper because we're all going to die. 11 00:00:29,713 --> 00:00:33,235 The flames of crisis burn far stronger, 12 00:00:33,259 --> 00:00:36,071 fed and fanned by the bitter tirades of Fidel Castro. 13 00:00:36,095 --> 00:00:38,907 And this guy, always in the fatigues, 14 00:00:38,931 --> 00:00:41,118 underlining with every appearance that we 15 00:00:41,142 --> 00:00:45,062 were two nations in a never-ending state of war. 16 00:00:52,653 --> 00:00:55,132 Today, the United States of America 17 00:00:55,156 --> 00:00:58,260 is changing its relationship with the people of Cuba. 18 00:00:58,284 --> 00:01:00,387 We will begin to normalize relations 19 00:01:00,411 --> 00:01:02,496 between our two countries. 20 00:01:07,960 --> 00:01:10,688 ♪ I took a walk through this ♪ 21 00:01:10,712 --> 00:01:13,650 ♪ Beautiful world ♪ 22 00:01:13,674 --> 00:01:19,072 ♪ Felt the cool rain on my shoulder ♪ 23 00:01:19,096 --> 00:01:25,120 ♪ Found something good in this beautiful world ♪ 24 00:01:25,144 --> 00:01:31,251 ♪ I felt the rain getting colder ♪ 25 00:01:31,275 --> 00:01:34,545 ♪ Sha la la la la ♪ 26 00:01:34,569 --> 00:01:37,548 ♪ Sha la la la la la ♪ 27 00:01:37,572 --> 00:01:40,593 ♪ Sha la la la la ♪ 28 00:01:40,617 --> 00:01:45,580 ♪ Sha la la la la la la ♪ 29 00:01:59,845 --> 00:02:04,034 Cuba has been sitting here 55 years now, half an hour away, 30 00:02:04,058 --> 00:02:07,162 basically giving the biggest superpower in the world 31 00:02:07,186 --> 00:02:09,498 the stiff middle finger. 32 00:02:09,522 --> 00:02:13,043 Fifty-plus years of animosity, 33 00:02:13,067 --> 00:02:14,919 embargo, rationing, 34 00:02:14,943 --> 00:02:18,589 and Fidel Castro is still hanging on. 35 00:02:18,613 --> 00:02:21,259 But recently, there are powerful indications 36 00:02:21,283 --> 00:02:24,578 that everything is about to change. 37 00:02:28,165 --> 00:02:31,895 We are in Jaimanitas, a little fishing town. 38 00:02:31,919 --> 00:02:34,064 This place is called Casa de Santy, 39 00:02:34,088 --> 00:02:36,858 owned by two brothers that go out and fish every morning 40 00:02:36,882 --> 00:02:38,776 and bring fresh seafood. 41 00:02:38,800 --> 00:02:40,278 Okay, humble fishing village, 42 00:02:40,302 --> 00:02:45,534 - traditional fishing family? - Yes. 43 00:02:45,558 --> 00:02:47,160 We're about to eat sushi. 44 00:02:47,184 --> 00:02:49,162 What's going on in this country, man? 45 00:02:49,186 --> 00:02:52,605 Things are changing, Anthony, what can I say? 46 00:02:58,695 --> 00:03:01,966 My name is Hugo Cancio. I was born in Cuba. 47 00:03:01,990 --> 00:03:04,177 I was in one of Cuba's most prominent schools 48 00:03:04,201 --> 00:03:06,513 when I made a joke about President Fidel Castro. 49 00:03:06,537 --> 00:03:08,848 I was a teenager. 50 00:03:08,872 --> 00:03:11,600 The kid that slept on the bunk bed on top of me 51 00:03:11,624 --> 00:03:15,021 recorded our conversation and I was expelled from school. 52 00:03:15,045 --> 00:03:18,191 My mom said the only choice is for us to leave Cuba. 53 00:03:18,215 --> 00:03:21,403 I'm a businessman. I've lived in Miami for 35 years. 54 00:03:21,427 --> 00:03:23,905 It's my home base. I come back and forth to Cuba. 55 00:03:23,929 --> 00:03:25,698 I've been coming to Cuba for over 20 years. 56 00:03:25,722 --> 00:03:31,620 Cuba is a communist country in economic transition. 57 00:03:31,644 --> 00:03:34,541 Since Fidel Castro allowed Cubans to establish 58 00:03:34,565 --> 00:03:37,377 more businesses, there are people that are making money, 59 00:03:37,401 --> 00:03:39,963 people that have created a tremendous amount of wealth. 60 00:03:39,987 --> 00:03:42,715 People with family connections to the States, 61 00:03:42,739 --> 00:03:45,260 people tied to the exploding tourist industry, 62 00:03:45,284 --> 00:03:48,263 small business owners, taxi drivers, 63 00:03:48,287 --> 00:03:50,848 people operating in ever-changing gray areas 64 00:03:50,872 --> 00:03:53,643 of what is permissible. 65 00:03:53,667 --> 00:03:55,562 How's it work right now? If you're Cuban, 66 00:03:55,586 --> 00:03:59,357 - you can sell your property... - To another Cuban from Cuba. 67 00:03:59,381 --> 00:04:01,610 That's what's happening right now, a lot of Cuban-Americans, 68 00:04:01,634 --> 00:04:04,904 a lot of Cubans living abroad are now coming back 69 00:04:04,928 --> 00:04:08,658 and through relatives are buying property. 70 00:04:08,682 --> 00:04:11,328 Obviously somebody has touched this building 71 00:04:11,352 --> 00:04:13,997 with some kind of investment. It's renovated. 72 00:04:14,021 --> 00:04:16,333 It seems to be like a hotel. Somebody bought the building 73 00:04:16,357 --> 00:04:19,443 and turned it into a little hotel. 74 00:04:22,488 --> 00:04:24,882 However you feel about the government, 75 00:04:24,906 --> 00:04:26,884 however you feel about the last 55 years, 76 00:04:26,908 --> 00:04:29,429 there aren't any places in the world that look like this. 77 00:04:29,453 --> 00:04:32,765 - It's utterly enchanting. - It's very seductive. 78 00:04:32,789 --> 00:04:35,726 There's no doubt in my mind that somewhere in the offices 79 00:04:35,750 --> 00:04:37,687 of the Four Seasons hotel chain, 80 00:04:37,711 --> 00:04:40,731 "One of these days." 81 00:04:40,755 --> 00:04:44,194 You know, and cruise ships. What happens then? 82 00:04:44,218 --> 00:04:46,446 Well, look... -Is this an inevitable 83 00:04:46,470 --> 00:04:48,948 march of progress? Am I being a snob? 84 00:04:48,972 --> 00:04:51,660 No, no, you're being very realistic. 85 00:04:51,684 --> 00:04:53,495 That's the concern of most Cubans. 86 00:04:53,519 --> 00:04:56,289 I wouldn't mind seeing one or two Starbucks in Havana. 87 00:04:56,313 --> 00:04:59,209 Hoping that we don't go back to 1958, 88 00:04:59,233 --> 00:05:02,337 when the majority of Cuban companies were owned 89 00:05:02,361 --> 00:05:03,796 by American corporations. 90 00:05:03,820 --> 00:05:06,216 I have got to believe that Cuba wants 91 00:05:06,240 --> 00:05:08,926 some of the value that represents, you know, 92 00:05:08,950 --> 00:05:11,953 the hearts and souls of the Cuban people. 93 00:05:20,462 --> 00:05:22,273 Last time I was in Havana, 94 00:05:22,297 --> 00:05:24,942 a meal at a paladar would have been rice and beans. 95 00:05:24,966 --> 00:05:27,862 Now, sushi. 96 00:05:27,886 --> 00:05:31,824 A certain sign of impending apocalypse. 97 00:05:31,848 --> 00:05:35,495 Ten years ago this restaurant 98 00:05:35,519 --> 00:05:38,164 would have never been allowed, not only because 99 00:05:38,188 --> 00:05:40,250 private businesses were not allowed, 100 00:05:40,274 --> 00:05:43,836 but the external influence that you're seeing, remember, 101 00:05:43,860 --> 00:05:47,382 this is a country where chewing gum or listening to the Beatles 102 00:05:47,406 --> 00:05:48,925 were prohibited. 103 00:05:48,949 --> 00:05:51,428 I don't think we need to have Twitter every day. 104 00:05:51,452 --> 00:05:53,471 One thing I love about coming to Cuba is the fact 105 00:05:53,495 --> 00:05:55,932 that I can put my iPhone away. Who cares? 106 00:05:55,956 --> 00:05:59,102 Look what we have around us. I hope Cubans 107 00:05:59,126 --> 00:06:01,563 continue to have access to free information. 108 00:06:01,587 --> 00:06:05,882 They still want to preserve these family times. 109 00:06:16,101 --> 00:06:18,787 Tourists have been coming to Cuba for some time. 110 00:06:18,811 --> 00:06:23,000 Predominantly Europeans, many of them men of a certain age 111 00:06:23,024 --> 00:06:26,588 looking for, how should we say, company. 112 00:06:26,612 --> 00:06:30,174 But now it looks like Americans looking to live out fantasies 113 00:06:30,198 --> 00:06:33,910 of Godfather II will soon be able to do so. 114 00:06:36,246 --> 00:06:40,584 And it's all still here for them. 115 00:06:50,385 --> 00:06:52,656 But there's new stuff, too. 116 00:06:52,680 --> 00:06:55,683 This is certainly new. 117 00:06:56,684 --> 00:06:58,369 Fábrica de Arte, 118 00:06:58,393 --> 00:07:01,313 the hottest spot in Havana. 119 00:07:03,607 --> 00:07:06,835 A nightclub, performance space, art gallery, 120 00:07:06,859 --> 00:07:10,507 highlighting artists, musicians and DJs from around the world. 121 00:07:10,531 --> 00:07:14,368 Questlove is scheduled to DJ here tomorrow night. 122 00:07:16,119 --> 00:07:19,724 Like a big bag when all the arts can fit inside. 123 00:07:19,748 --> 00:07:21,976 What is going on here? 124 00:07:22,000 --> 00:07:25,480 I ask Inti Herrera and X Alfonso, 125 00:07:25,504 --> 00:07:27,649 two of the young entrepreneurs behind the place. 126 00:07:27,673 --> 00:07:30,527 Nothing like this ever existed before. 127 00:07:30,551 --> 00:07:33,571 Did the government Bureau of Arts help you? 128 00:07:33,595 --> 00:07:36,282 We had, at the beginning, we had subsidies 129 00:07:36,306 --> 00:07:38,159 from the Ministry of Culture. 130 00:07:38,183 --> 00:07:40,453 Even the building, we asked for the building 131 00:07:40,477 --> 00:07:43,164 because it was abandoned for 13 years. 132 00:07:43,188 --> 00:07:45,166 The place is very popular. 133 00:07:45,190 --> 00:07:47,210 - Right now, yes. - Who comes here? 134 00:07:47,234 --> 00:07:49,838 These people that love art, 135 00:07:49,862 --> 00:07:52,590 but at the same time, it's very diverse. 136 00:07:52,614 --> 00:07:56,177 It attracts a once unthinkable mix of foreigners 137 00:07:56,201 --> 00:07:58,596 and locals that enjoys the actual support 138 00:07:58,620 --> 00:08:00,849 of the government, without whom, of course, 139 00:08:00,873 --> 00:08:02,350 it couldn't exist. 140 00:08:02,374 --> 00:08:03,976 Our chef here, Lisette, 141 00:08:04,000 --> 00:08:07,295 is part of the art world, you know, here. 142 00:08:09,172 --> 00:08:11,025 A ceviche of dogfish 143 00:08:11,049 --> 00:08:13,343 with pickled vegetables. 144 00:08:16,930 --> 00:08:19,534 Loin of pork, pan seared with yucca 145 00:08:19,558 --> 00:08:21,703 and a riff on a traditional orange sauce 146 00:08:21,727 --> 00:08:23,705 with garlic and coriander. 147 00:08:23,729 --> 00:08:26,815 - It's good. - Very good. 148 00:08:28,149 --> 00:08:30,044 What do you think's going to happen 149 00:08:30,068 --> 00:08:33,256 when the door opens and you've got hundreds of thousands 150 00:08:33,280 --> 00:08:35,383 of Americans flooding in here, 151 00:08:35,407 --> 00:08:39,136 looking desperately to spend money on anything Cuban? 152 00:08:39,160 --> 00:08:42,515 I don't know, man. We are a small country. 153 00:08:42,539 --> 00:08:44,851 We have to adapt to new things. 154 00:08:44,875 --> 00:08:46,853 But it's a good challenge. 155 00:08:46,877 --> 00:08:48,979 I guess I'm asking how do you keep it real 156 00:08:49,003 --> 00:08:52,024 when you'll all probably be millionaires in a few years? 157 00:08:52,048 --> 00:08:54,676 - Us? You think so? - Yeah. Yeah. 158 00:08:57,345 --> 00:09:02,159 It's not our goal in life, but... that's... 159 00:09:02,183 --> 00:09:03,953 - Doesn't matter. - Yeah, doesn't matter. 160 00:09:03,977 --> 00:09:07,248 We're going to have more factories. 161 00:09:07,272 --> 00:09:08,440 More factories. 162 00:09:22,704 --> 00:09:26,935 Havana still looks like you want it to look. 163 00:09:26,959 --> 00:09:30,796 Or maybe just how I want it to look. 164 00:09:36,301 --> 00:09:38,404 What was once one of the wealthiest cities 165 00:09:38,428 --> 00:09:41,616 in Latin America left to the elements, 166 00:09:41,640 --> 00:09:47,354 left to collapse, were frozen gloriously in time. 167 00:09:55,654 --> 00:09:58,591 In fits and starts, Cuba is changing, 168 00:09:58,615 --> 00:10:02,971 but it's not sugar or rum or tobacco or casino gambling 169 00:10:02,995 --> 00:10:06,832 that is the new god. It's tourism. 170 00:10:13,922 --> 00:10:17,694 All right. So here, Chinatown. Such as it is. 171 00:10:17,718 --> 00:10:22,740 But are there any Chinese left in Havana? 172 00:10:22,764 --> 00:10:25,535 No. There's a few new Chinese. 173 00:10:25,559 --> 00:10:27,411 - Right. - At one point the Chinese 174 00:10:27,435 --> 00:10:30,748 community in Cuba was huge, but they pretty much cleared out 175 00:10:30,772 --> 00:10:33,960 after the revolution, as did most of the Russian, 176 00:10:33,984 --> 00:10:37,463 Jewish émigrés who were here, so the state has erected 177 00:10:37,487 --> 00:10:40,216 a few quintessentially Chinatown gates. 178 00:10:40,240 --> 00:10:44,303 Mustered the 14 Chinese people left in it to... 179 00:10:44,327 --> 00:10:45,805 summon their relatives. 180 00:10:45,829 --> 00:10:47,765 For more than 35 years, 181 00:10:47,789 --> 00:10:50,518 Jon Lee Anderson has been reporting from conflict zones 182 00:10:50,542 --> 00:10:54,814 such as Syria, Lebanon, Libya, Iraq, and Afghanistan. 183 00:10:54,838 --> 00:10:57,025 I lied about my age and traveled around Africa. 184 00:10:57,049 --> 00:10:59,986 When I was 13, I told people I was 26. 185 00:11:00,010 --> 00:11:02,906 In the early 1990s, while researching a biography 186 00:11:02,930 --> 00:11:05,783 of Che Guevara, he and his family moved to Cuba 187 00:11:05,807 --> 00:11:07,869 and ended up staying for three years. 188 00:11:07,893 --> 00:11:10,496 You lived here during the special period, 189 00:11:10,520 --> 00:11:15,043 which was not so special. That was the bad times. 190 00:11:15,067 --> 00:11:16,920 - That was the bad times. - The Russians had pulled out. 191 00:11:16,944 --> 00:11:19,756 - Soviets all done. - The economy went like this. 192 00:11:19,780 --> 00:11:21,799 - Completely. - Ninety percent. It just tanked. 193 00:11:21,823 --> 00:11:25,177 Cuba lost 80 percent of its import goods, 194 00:11:25,201 --> 00:11:28,138 which led to widespread hunger, malnutrition, 195 00:11:28,162 --> 00:11:32,476 on the island. 196 00:11:32,500 --> 00:11:36,898 Soviet-style place 197 00:11:36,922 --> 00:11:39,525 with food that was flown in. Quite bad food. 198 00:11:39,549 --> 00:11:42,094 Under Fidel's rule, that's the way it was. 199 00:11:46,765 --> 00:11:48,325 It's like a cargo cult version 200 00:11:48,349 --> 00:11:51,812 of Chinese food here. Dumplings. 201 00:11:54,439 --> 00:11:57,293 The Szechuan chicken dish that's about as Szechuan 202 00:11:57,317 --> 00:11:59,253 as, well, I am. 203 00:11:59,277 --> 00:12:01,505 What's going to happen? What's next? 204 00:12:01,529 --> 00:12:05,718 The uptick in tourism just after the December 17th announcement, 205 00:12:05,742 --> 00:12:07,470 the surprise announcement by Raul and Obama, 206 00:12:07,494 --> 00:12:10,014 in which they said we decided to make friends again, 207 00:12:10,038 --> 00:12:13,059 the surge in tourism and American interests 208 00:12:13,083 --> 00:12:15,269 in Cuba is like this. 209 00:12:15,293 --> 00:12:18,856 You now have an island where every room is for rent 210 00:12:18,880 --> 00:12:21,025 because you can make $30 or $40 a day. 211 00:12:21,049 --> 00:12:24,946 That's more than a state employee makes in three months. 212 00:12:24,970 --> 00:12:27,615 There will be wealthy hipsters, women in tiny black dresses 213 00:12:27,639 --> 00:12:29,784 drinking ironic rifts on the mojito, 214 00:12:29,808 --> 00:12:33,121 in a lobby of the spanking new W Hotel with... 215 00:12:33,145 --> 00:12:34,872 in the background, 216 00:12:34,896 --> 00:12:38,584 I would say so. 217 00:12:38,608 --> 00:12:40,670 Will every Cuban have an unalienable right 218 00:12:40,694 --> 00:12:42,379 to free medical care and education? 219 00:12:42,403 --> 00:12:44,132 That's what they're worried about. 220 00:12:44,156 --> 00:12:46,174 The last time I was here, which was in 2013, 221 00:12:46,198 --> 00:12:50,304 I counted eight to ten homeless garbage eating people 222 00:12:50,328 --> 00:12:53,724 in the street. I thought, wow, I've never seen that in Cuba. 223 00:12:53,748 --> 00:12:55,935 That's something the old Cuba, socialist Cuba, 224 00:12:55,959 --> 00:12:58,021 that could look after all its citizens, 225 00:12:58,045 --> 00:13:02,025 would never have allowed. It's allowing it now. 226 00:13:02,049 --> 00:13:05,820 This period we're here in, it's the lull before it all hits. 227 00:13:05,844 --> 00:13:09,239 The train is coming. It's either going to roar by 228 00:13:09,263 --> 00:13:11,492 and they're going to be able to jump on and go with it, 229 00:13:11,516 --> 00:13:13,661 or it's going to derail and it will be a mess. 230 00:13:13,685 --> 00:13:15,979 All of it's possible. 231 00:13:36,958 --> 00:13:41,171 My mom is asking me if you would like to taste the rice? 232 00:13:43,006 --> 00:13:44,859 Oh, it's fantastic. 233 00:13:44,883 --> 00:13:47,862 Like a lot of Cubans, Yusimi Rodriguez 234 00:13:47,886 --> 00:13:50,156 lives in same working-class neighborhood 235 00:13:50,180 --> 00:13:53,659 where she was born. - I live with my mom, 236 00:13:53,683 --> 00:13:55,661 my sister, and my niece. 237 00:13:55,685 --> 00:13:58,581 Of course I would like to have my own bedroom. 238 00:13:58,605 --> 00:14:01,876 But there are people who don't even have a house. 239 00:14:01,900 --> 00:14:04,003 You were a translator, is that correct? 240 00:14:04,027 --> 00:14:06,254 - You are now a journalist? - Yeah, well, 241 00:14:06,278 --> 00:14:08,382 I've been writing for Havana Times 242 00:14:08,406 --> 00:14:14,013 and I write also for another... independent website. 243 00:14:14,037 --> 00:14:16,891 She struggles to eke out a living in an industry 244 00:14:16,915 --> 00:14:19,769 where the state firmly controls all media. 245 00:14:19,793 --> 00:14:23,272 What subjects in particular are of interest to you? 246 00:14:23,296 --> 00:14:25,149 - Racial issues. - Racial disparity. 247 00:14:25,173 --> 00:14:30,529 This is something that the revolution promised to address. 248 00:14:30,553 --> 00:14:35,576 Their main mistake was to say that they had eradicated racism, 249 00:14:35,600 --> 00:14:38,537 that just like... it could be eradicated just like that. 250 00:14:38,561 --> 00:14:41,791 On the street, for instance, policemen, 251 00:14:41,815 --> 00:14:44,710 the first people they stop, black people. 252 00:14:44,734 --> 00:14:48,696 If you're black, you are a potential criminal. 253 00:14:51,992 --> 00:14:54,887 Her mom, Rosa, prepares a cabbage stew 254 00:14:54,911 --> 00:14:57,640 with carrots, tomatoes, and green beans for her, 255 00:14:57,664 --> 00:14:59,475 as Yusimi is a rare vegetarian 256 00:14:59,499 --> 00:15:01,435 on an island where pork is king. 257 00:15:01,459 --> 00:15:03,544 Fantastic, look at that. 258 00:15:05,588 --> 00:15:11,011 And for us, pork marinated in garlic, onion, and sour orange. 259 00:15:12,929 --> 00:15:15,658 Please tell your mom it's superb, really excellent. 260 00:15:15,682 --> 00:15:19,369 Thank you. 261 00:15:19,393 --> 00:15:22,706 You have a very highly educated public here, 262 00:15:22,730 --> 00:15:24,458 one of the most literate nations on earth. 263 00:15:24,482 --> 00:15:27,128 That's funny, we're highly educated, 264 00:15:27,152 --> 00:15:32,133 but we're behind concerning internet and all that stuff. 265 00:15:32,157 --> 00:15:35,803 Most the folk have access to only the official media, 266 00:15:35,827 --> 00:15:39,389 the official newspaper. If internet comes, 267 00:15:39,413 --> 00:15:42,476 and I think the government is trying to delay it, 268 00:15:42,500 --> 00:15:45,354 if that comes, many things will change. 269 00:15:45,378 --> 00:15:48,565 People will have access to different points of view, 270 00:15:48,589 --> 00:15:52,278 and I don't think our government wants that. 271 00:15:52,302 --> 00:15:55,323 Mm-hmm. 272 00:15:55,347 --> 00:15:56,907 ...what will Havana be like, 273 00:15:56,931 --> 00:15:59,160 what will this neighborhood be like in five years? 274 00:15:59,184 --> 00:16:03,247 You know, having a prosperous society 275 00:16:03,271 --> 00:16:08,044 doesn't guarantee that it is the same for everyone. 276 00:16:08,068 --> 00:16:10,171 You know, you see these people who have been able 277 00:16:10,195 --> 00:16:12,589 to use opportunities, to open businesses, 278 00:16:12,613 --> 00:16:16,135 to open successful restaurants. Those opportunities are there, 279 00:16:16,159 --> 00:16:21,431 but I cannot use them because I don't have money. 280 00:16:21,455 --> 00:16:26,187 I don't think it is possible to have a perfect society, 281 00:16:26,211 --> 00:16:30,233 but I think it is possible to try. 282 00:16:30,257 --> 00:16:32,484 - How you like the food? - Oh, it's delicious. 283 00:16:32,508 --> 00:16:34,802 Really good. Thank you. 284 00:16:44,812 --> 00:16:48,376 All Cuba seems waiting for something. 285 00:16:48,400 --> 00:16:52,279 For whatever it is that happens next. 286 00:16:58,534 --> 00:17:02,056 Today, that's the roar of Detroit's finest, 287 00:17:02,080 --> 00:17:04,665 circa 1959 and before, of course. 288 00:17:08,586 --> 00:17:12,358 American dream machines tricked out, babied, pampered, 289 00:17:12,382 --> 00:17:14,151 jerry-rigged or simply held together 290 00:17:14,175 --> 00:17:16,970 with duct tape and bailing wire. 291 00:17:41,995 --> 00:17:44,014 Nice. 292 00:17:44,038 --> 00:17:46,142 What's under the hood? 293 00:17:46,166 --> 00:17:48,376 V8 American engines. 294 00:17:50,586 --> 00:17:52,713 We buy spares, bring spares from America. 295 00:17:58,052 --> 00:18:00,406 All we think about through the week 296 00:18:00,430 --> 00:18:03,784 is our machines, our V8 engines. 297 00:18:03,808 --> 00:18:06,245 Car racing in Cuba, they love it here 298 00:18:06,269 --> 00:18:09,981 Whoa, that's serious. 299 00:18:11,358 --> 00:18:14,670 Los Amigos del Motor are diehard gearheads. 300 00:18:14,694 --> 00:18:18,507 Drag racers who for more than 20 years have been defying 301 00:18:18,531 --> 00:18:21,135 the law and escaping the grind of daily life 302 00:18:21,159 --> 00:18:23,929 by pressing pedal to the metal and hurdling down 303 00:18:23,953 --> 00:18:28,309 the highway faster, faster, fast as they can go. 304 00:18:28,333 --> 00:18:30,144 They find the best part of the day 305 00:18:30,168 --> 00:18:32,146 when there's not so much traffic. 306 00:18:32,170 --> 00:18:35,065 You get hundreds of people on both sides of the road. 307 00:18:35,089 --> 00:18:37,360 Before it was absolutely illegal. 308 00:18:37,384 --> 00:18:40,237 It's always been illegal. It's only the last couple 309 00:18:40,261 --> 00:18:43,407 of weeks that we're going to get sponsorship 310 00:18:43,431 --> 00:18:45,117 from the minister of sports. 311 00:18:45,141 --> 00:18:48,371 Everything is changing. It's entirely possible 312 00:18:48,395 --> 00:18:52,291 that soon you'll be able to order any part, any car, 313 00:18:52,315 --> 00:18:54,960 any car in the world. You can have it tomorrow. 314 00:18:54,984 --> 00:18:56,379 - What would it be? - Corvette. 315 00:18:56,403 --> 00:18:58,612 - Corvette. - Corvette. Which year? 316 00:19:00,490 --> 00:19:02,783 The most modern! 317 00:19:40,405 --> 00:19:42,615 This is a lunar picnic. It's only to be seen at night. 318 00:19:44,825 --> 00:19:48,764 The grills are painted with this fluorescent paint. 319 00:19:48,788 --> 00:19:51,850 It's very surrealistic. It's a weird sensation. 320 00:19:51,874 --> 00:19:55,396 Make you hungry somehow. 321 00:19:55,420 --> 00:19:58,274 Along with his creative partner, 322 00:19:58,298 --> 00:20:01,026 Marco Castillo, Dago Rodriguez is half 323 00:20:01,050 --> 00:20:03,737 of Los Carpinteros, an artistic entity 324 00:20:03,761 --> 00:20:07,366 whose work is shown and collected all over the world. 325 00:20:07,390 --> 00:20:10,453 Every single project is a different thing. 326 00:20:10,477 --> 00:20:14,415 We have different technology to fabricate, to develop. 327 00:20:14,439 --> 00:20:16,542 Los Carpinteros have managed to stay 328 00:20:16,566 --> 00:20:19,962 in the government's good graces by wryly using irony 329 00:20:19,986 --> 00:20:21,630 to make their points. 330 00:20:21,654 --> 00:20:23,757 In the brutally competitive and capricious 331 00:20:23,781 --> 00:20:27,844 contemporary art world outside Cuba, they are stars. 332 00:20:27,868 --> 00:20:30,013 They make a lot of money. 333 00:20:30,037 --> 00:20:33,791 But they always return home to Havana. 334 00:20:34,917 --> 00:20:37,920 Oh. Looks like we'll be eating well. 335 00:20:46,887 --> 00:20:49,682 Whoo! 336 00:20:51,142 --> 00:20:54,061 Tonight it's a party in Dago's backyard. 337 00:20:59,609 --> 00:21:00,710 Cheers. 338 00:21:00,734 --> 00:21:02,588 Ochoa has made his much loved 339 00:21:02,612 --> 00:21:05,299 pig's head soup with pumpkin, corn, peppers, 340 00:21:05,323 --> 00:21:08,034 sweet potatoes, casaba, and plantain. 341 00:21:14,290 --> 00:21:18,395 I saw somebody's house, just an ordinary home, 342 00:21:18,419 --> 00:21:20,648 but they'd created their own fast-food franchise, 343 00:21:20,672 --> 00:21:23,900 they made it look as if it was part of a chain, 344 00:21:23,924 --> 00:21:26,654 like Mr. Burger or something like this. 345 00:21:26,678 --> 00:21:29,490 This place can be a paradise for fast food. Fast food... 346 00:21:29,514 --> 00:21:32,159 I hope they don't come here soon. 347 00:21:32,183 --> 00:21:33,661 Yeah, well, this is my biggest fear, 348 00:21:33,685 --> 00:21:37,247 is there will be a big glass box of a W Hotel 349 00:21:37,271 --> 00:21:41,544 and start seeing Starbucks and Victoria's Secret, 350 00:21:41,568 --> 00:21:43,962 you know, all the people who make every place look the same. 351 00:21:43,986 --> 00:21:46,131 - It would be awful. - Yeah, but we have 352 00:21:46,155 --> 00:21:49,718 - a... 50 year lack of money. - Right. 353 00:21:49,742 --> 00:21:53,347 This is a big problem. The people will freak out 354 00:21:53,371 --> 00:21:55,432 with money when they have the money here. 355 00:21:55,456 --> 00:21:58,519 Of course. I mean, if there's a $200 million 356 00:21:58,543 --> 00:22:01,146 hotel project that's sustainable, 357 00:22:01,170 --> 00:22:03,899 that reserves the facade of the city, 358 00:22:03,923 --> 00:22:08,052 per se. 359 00:22:09,345 --> 00:22:11,198 Whoa, what's cooking over there? 360 00:22:11,222 --> 00:22:13,283 Can't forget the whole roasted pig. 361 00:22:13,307 --> 00:22:15,744 A few years back, a pretty unthinkable luxury 362 00:22:15,768 --> 00:22:17,746 for just about everybody. 363 00:22:17,770 --> 00:22:20,666 - Oh, wow. Soup. - Wow. 364 00:22:20,690 --> 00:22:22,834 Everything is biological here. 365 00:22:22,858 --> 00:22:24,294 Organic food. 366 00:22:24,318 --> 00:22:26,672 They have no money for chemistry here. 367 00:22:26,696 --> 00:22:29,781 No pesticides and the hormones yet. 368 00:22:33,703 --> 00:22:35,389 Oh, wow. 369 00:22:35,413 --> 00:22:37,516 Then tamales steamed in the broth 370 00:22:37,540 --> 00:22:40,084 from the pig's head soup. 371 00:22:43,963 --> 00:22:47,174 - Life is good. - Yeah, it is. 372 00:23:34,722 --> 00:23:37,367 I think that our culture is so strong 373 00:23:37,391 --> 00:23:39,703 that it's going to take a lot of tourists, 374 00:23:39,727 --> 00:23:41,789 a lot of boats... 375 00:23:41,813 --> 00:23:43,666 - How do you say...? - Cruise ships. 376 00:23:43,690 --> 00:23:45,375 Cruise ships. It's going to take a lot 377 00:23:45,399 --> 00:23:47,711 of cruise ships to dissolve these ingredients. 378 00:23:47,735 --> 00:23:51,823 We're always like this, with or without tourists. 379 00:24:14,721 --> 00:24:18,283 This is a typical street of this neighborhood. 380 00:24:18,307 --> 00:24:21,286 Houses of wood, houses of concrete. 381 00:24:21,310 --> 00:24:24,998 The street is not in good condition. 382 00:24:25,022 --> 00:24:29,919 Here was the bus station. It's not a bus station anymore. 383 00:24:29,943 --> 00:24:34,800 Now it's a building. It's a monument of the past. 384 00:24:34,824 --> 00:24:37,845 Mantilla is a suburb of Havana, 385 00:24:37,869 --> 00:24:40,972 home to one of Cuba's most celebrated writers. 386 00:24:40,996 --> 00:24:43,891 My name is Leonardo Padura. I am a writer. 387 00:24:43,915 --> 00:24:47,086 And we are in the house where I have lived my whole life. 388 00:24:49,672 --> 00:24:52,984 There are a lot of lines in the Cuban reality, 389 00:24:53,008 --> 00:24:56,530 that apparently cannot be trespassed. 390 00:24:56,554 --> 00:24:59,282 But I think they can be crossed, 391 00:24:59,306 --> 00:25:01,201 or at the very least they can be pushed. 392 00:25:01,225 --> 00:25:03,286 Author of the internationally successful 393 00:25:03,310 --> 00:25:05,247 Mario Conde detective series, 394 00:25:05,271 --> 00:25:08,041 Padura has been able to portray the daily struggles, 395 00:25:08,065 --> 00:25:10,586 the absurdities of life in Cuba. 396 00:25:10,610 --> 00:25:14,089 It's a delicate dance, and few have been able to replicate it. 397 00:25:14,113 --> 00:25:17,217 Your hero in the books, does he live in this neighborhood? 398 00:25:17,241 --> 00:25:20,429 - Or another neighborhood? - More or less, more or less. 399 00:25:20,453 --> 00:25:23,724 A happy place to grow up, this neighborhood? 400 00:25:23,748 --> 00:25:27,959 Yeah, yeah. I was totally free. 401 00:25:29,961 --> 00:25:32,900 I notice a lot of people just hanging out. 402 00:25:32,924 --> 00:25:36,069 - Who lives here? - All kinds of people. 403 00:25:36,093 --> 00:25:39,847 Doctors, for example. Engineers. Workers. 404 00:25:45,645 --> 00:25:49,792 And people who makes nothing, like that guy. 405 00:25:49,816 --> 00:25:51,627 - Right. - He don't make nothing. 406 00:25:51,651 --> 00:25:54,880 - How does he live? - Trying to find something 407 00:25:54,904 --> 00:25:59,492 to do or something to sell. Making a small business. 408 00:26:01,494 --> 00:26:04,723 Cafeteria a la BBQ is only one example 409 00:26:04,747 --> 00:26:08,876 of a booming do-it-yourself service industry. 410 00:26:16,133 --> 00:26:19,696 It's a place where you get a lot of bang for your money. 411 00:26:19,720 --> 00:26:22,073 Nothing fancy, just delicious. 412 00:26:22,097 --> 00:26:23,533 Gracias. 413 00:26:23,557 --> 00:26:25,619 Fried pork, plantains, 414 00:26:25,643 --> 00:26:28,872 and the kind of silky, deeply satisfying beans 415 00:26:28,896 --> 00:26:30,332 that dreams are made of. 416 00:26:30,356 --> 00:26:32,876 - This is good. Good beans. - Yeah. 417 00:26:32,900 --> 00:26:36,922 You've never had a book blacklisted or banned in Cuba? 418 00:26:36,946 --> 00:26:39,466 - Fortunately, no. - Have you been able to say 419 00:26:39,490 --> 00:26:41,217 everything that you wanted to say? 420 00:26:41,241 --> 00:26:46,264 I try to be the most honest writer 421 00:26:46,288 --> 00:26:48,224 that I can be, 422 00:26:48,248 --> 00:26:52,312 and I think that I say all that I can say. 423 00:26:52,336 --> 00:26:56,859 The problem is that we need, in Cuba, a lot of money. 424 00:26:56,883 --> 00:26:59,402 Because it's a beautiful city, 425 00:26:59,426 --> 00:27:02,698 but the people have many problems to live, 426 00:27:02,722 --> 00:27:06,851 with the space, with the structure of the buildings. 427 00:27:09,645 --> 00:27:12,332 For dessert, flan... -Awesome. 428 00:27:12,356 --> 00:27:16,503 - Cooked in a cut down beer can. - Thank you. 429 00:27:16,527 --> 00:27:18,547 You're a successful author. 430 00:27:18,571 --> 00:27:21,633 You've been around the world, you've traveled? 431 00:27:21,657 --> 00:27:24,011 During difficult periods of Cuban history, 432 00:27:24,035 --> 00:27:26,555 I'm sure you had many opportunities to live 433 00:27:26,579 --> 00:27:29,016 in Miami or Barcelona or Los Angeles. 434 00:27:29,040 --> 00:27:33,269 And yet you stayed in the same house, the same neighborhood. 435 00:27:33,293 --> 00:27:37,816 - Why? - Because I like it. 436 00:27:37,840 --> 00:27:41,737 I need to live in Cuba, near to the Cuban people, 437 00:27:41,761 --> 00:27:47,767 near to the Cuban language. For me, it's very important. 438 00:27:51,687 --> 00:27:56,001 Yes, the future is here. 439 00:27:56,025 --> 00:27:59,236 But the past, too, is everywhere. 440 00:28:03,282 --> 00:28:07,804 The buildings, the cars, the gears of the whole system 441 00:28:07,828 --> 00:28:11,415 are still largely stuck in time. 442 00:28:25,679 --> 00:28:28,450 My name is Juana Bacallao. 443 00:28:28,474 --> 00:28:31,828 Juana la Cubana. 444 00:28:31,852 --> 00:28:34,497 93-year-old Juana Bacallao 445 00:28:34,521 --> 00:28:36,583 is very much a part of that past. 446 00:28:36,607 --> 00:28:39,002 I have dedicated myself to my art, 447 00:28:39,026 --> 00:28:42,047 to singing for the people, my entire life. 448 00:28:42,071 --> 00:28:43,924 Long before the revolution, 449 00:28:43,948 --> 00:28:46,676 she was a shining star at Meyer Lansky's Tropicana, 450 00:28:46,700 --> 00:28:50,806 singing for Capone, Luciano. You know the names. 451 00:28:50,830 --> 00:28:54,333 Always, "Juana! Juana!" when I try to get into my car. 452 00:28:57,086 --> 00:29:02,883 And that is the life I have always know with the people. 453 00:29:19,191 --> 00:29:25,656 I go on stage every day at midnight, with my orchestra. 454 00:30:08,741 --> 00:30:10,760 Cuba has always been divine. 455 00:30:10,784 --> 00:30:13,555 It is a wonderful fountain of friends. 456 00:30:13,579 --> 00:30:17,266 All the people love me. 457 00:30:17,290 --> 00:30:20,878 As long as there is light I will sing. 458 00:30:41,190 --> 00:30:43,168 Cuba is not Havana. 459 00:30:43,192 --> 00:30:45,795 It's a bigger country than you might imagine, 460 00:30:45,819 --> 00:30:47,714 and the road to Santiago de Cuba, 461 00:30:47,738 --> 00:30:49,925 the country's second largest city, 462 00:30:49,949 --> 00:30:51,634 takes you 12 hours on their 463 00:30:51,658 --> 00:30:55,388 less than modern highway system. 464 00:30:55,412 --> 00:30:57,974 Along the way, you see agrarian Cuba, 465 00:30:57,998 --> 00:31:02,962 the country in which most Cubans lived pre-revolution. 466 00:31:17,935 --> 00:31:21,248 Santiago is a poorer city. It's blacker. 467 00:31:21,272 --> 00:31:24,960 Unlike Havana, the symbols and faces of the revolution 468 00:31:24,984 --> 00:31:28,379 still seem to mean something. 469 00:31:28,403 --> 00:31:31,299 These brutalist prefab workers' housing complexes 470 00:31:31,323 --> 00:31:34,177 are everywhere here, and at first glance, 471 00:31:34,201 --> 00:31:35,845 hell, at second glance, 472 00:31:35,869 --> 00:31:38,431 they look like something you'd house animals in. 473 00:31:38,455 --> 00:31:41,893 But for many, previously living even poorer, harsher lives 474 00:31:41,917 --> 00:31:44,980 in the countryside, these offered something new. 475 00:31:45,004 --> 00:31:49,067 Each group of buildings came with a doctor, a school. 476 00:31:49,091 --> 00:31:54,721 Still, they look about as grim as grim can be. 477 00:32:00,393 --> 00:32:04,231 Yet Santiago is anything but grim. 478 00:32:06,066 --> 00:32:08,503 Siboney Beach is where locals go on the weekend 479 00:32:08,527 --> 00:32:11,506 to kick back with family, drink the best rum in Cuba, 480 00:32:11,530 --> 00:32:14,176 which means the best rum anywhere, swim, 481 00:32:14,200 --> 00:32:16,535 hang with family and friends. 482 00:32:20,247 --> 00:32:23,476 Hola, gentlemen. We will be needing... 483 00:32:23,500 --> 00:32:25,895 Reymel is our local fixer. 484 00:32:25,919 --> 00:32:27,814 Ruben is in the bar business. 485 00:32:27,838 --> 00:32:30,608 Sergio rents rooms to the occasional tourist. 486 00:32:30,632 --> 00:32:33,153 Everybody getting by, making the adjustment 487 00:32:33,177 --> 00:32:36,114 to private enterprise Cuba in their own way. 488 00:32:36,138 --> 00:32:39,284 Until a few years ago, you couldn't rent or sell, right? 489 00:32:39,308 --> 00:32:40,952 No. It was different. 490 00:32:40,976 --> 00:32:42,329 Years ago you could rent... 491 00:32:42,353 --> 00:32:44,664 A long time ago was allowed to rent house, 492 00:32:44,688 --> 00:32:46,249 but no sell and buy. 493 00:32:46,273 --> 00:32:48,668 What kind of fish is this? 494 00:32:48,692 --> 00:32:51,213 - Dorado. - Dorado. 495 00:32:51,237 --> 00:32:52,797 - It's huge. - Good. 496 00:32:52,821 --> 00:32:54,507 Fresh caught dorado 497 00:32:54,531 --> 00:32:57,344 and lobster is on the menu. 498 00:32:57,368 --> 00:32:59,179 Do they thank this is going to change? 499 00:32:59,203 --> 00:33:02,098 I mean, look, we've all been following the news. 500 00:33:02,122 --> 00:33:05,310 We will have a tourism that we've never had before. 501 00:33:05,334 --> 00:33:07,520 North American tourists. 502 00:33:07,544 --> 00:33:09,314 Right. Half an hour away. 503 00:33:09,338 --> 00:33:12,192 I mean, they can basically take a boat over for lunch. 504 00:33:12,216 --> 00:33:14,760 What do you think Americans want? 505 00:33:17,304 --> 00:33:19,532 They have no idea. They don't know, 506 00:33:19,556 --> 00:33:21,784 never talked to an American tourist before. 507 00:33:21,808 --> 00:33:25,288 Looking good now, man. Good rum, cold beer, 508 00:33:25,312 --> 00:33:26,956 good fish, good lobster. 509 00:33:26,980 --> 00:33:29,751 You'll be needing a blender for pina coladas. 510 00:33:29,775 --> 00:33:34,214 If they have no machine, 511 00:33:34,238 --> 00:33:36,591 they're going to do it by hand. 512 00:33:36,615 --> 00:33:38,385 Put it this way, my friend. 513 00:33:38,409 --> 00:33:40,303 You're going to be making a lot of pina coladas. 514 00:33:40,327 --> 00:33:43,789 I think you're going to need the machine. 515 00:34:04,351 --> 00:34:06,371 Nighttime is party time. 516 00:34:06,395 --> 00:34:09,958 Where everybody, it appears, at least from when I was there, 517 00:34:09,982 --> 00:34:11,500 hit the streets. 518 00:34:11,524 --> 00:34:13,795 Mom, dad, sis, even grandma 519 00:34:13,819 --> 00:34:16,780 get, well, crazy. 520 00:34:18,657 --> 00:34:21,677 Used to be son and trova that ruled the streets. 521 00:34:21,701 --> 00:34:24,347 This was where those musical styles were born, after all. 522 00:34:24,371 --> 00:34:28,459 But now it's reggaeton and, of course, hip-hop. 523 00:34:36,133 --> 00:34:39,362 Alan Garcia, is the leader of the Santiago-based 524 00:34:39,386 --> 00:34:43,032 hip-hop trio, TNT la Rezistencia. 525 00:34:43,056 --> 00:34:46,119 We've been making hip-hop for 15 years. 526 00:34:46,143 --> 00:34:47,954 Which is quite difficult here in Cuba. 527 00:34:47,978 --> 00:34:51,482 We've been in jail three days once just for make hip-hop. 528 00:35:00,282 --> 00:35:02,969 Definitely it's a change in Cuba, 529 00:35:02,993 --> 00:35:05,763 but I don't think it's because the relations 530 00:35:05,787 --> 00:35:07,432 with the United States are getting better. 531 00:35:07,456 --> 00:35:10,852 It's because the people just realize we need change. 532 00:35:10,876 --> 00:35:14,397 We still want a kind of society where everyone participates, 533 00:35:14,421 --> 00:35:17,466 and everyone is determining the future of our society. 534 00:35:25,474 --> 00:35:28,828 So born and bred, Santiago? 535 00:35:28,852 --> 00:35:31,914 - Where the good rum comes from. - Exactly. 536 00:35:31,938 --> 00:35:36,044 So tell me, music business in Santiago, what are you doing? 537 00:35:36,068 --> 00:35:39,255 for people. 538 00:35:39,279 --> 00:35:43,092 for proper food, 539 00:35:43,116 --> 00:35:45,345 but they've got money for a jar of beer. 540 00:35:45,369 --> 00:35:48,806 And just enjoying that beer in a place with music. 541 00:35:48,830 --> 00:35:51,100 How much American hip-hop do you get here? 542 00:35:51,124 --> 00:35:53,019 We get actually quite a lot. 543 00:35:53,043 --> 00:35:55,313 It's by friends. Someone who came from outside, 544 00:35:55,337 --> 00:35:58,149 then was passed to me and passed to my friends, and that's it. 545 00:35:58,173 --> 00:35:59,859 It's hand by hand. 546 00:35:59,883 --> 00:36:03,279 In the beginnings, the '90s, we start to make hip-hop here, 547 00:36:03,303 --> 00:36:06,366 and we got a lot of problems. Hip-hop came from the States, 548 00:36:06,390 --> 00:36:10,203 they are like the everlasting enemy of the revolution, 549 00:36:10,227 --> 00:36:14,707 so you are making a music, a protest music. 550 00:36:14,731 --> 00:36:16,751 - Right. - So we have been a couple times 551 00:36:16,775 --> 00:36:19,003 in jail just for songs. 552 00:36:19,027 --> 00:36:21,964 So now you can make money performing? 553 00:36:21,988 --> 00:36:25,009 - Yeah. - You can make money selling? 554 00:36:25,033 --> 00:36:27,345 CD's in the streets. 555 00:36:27,369 --> 00:36:30,848 But actually, right now, more possibilities are coming, 556 00:36:30,872 --> 00:36:33,268 when the opportunity to promote the music, 557 00:36:33,292 --> 00:36:35,978 when the opportunity to having access to internet, 558 00:36:36,002 --> 00:36:37,355 free access, I mean. 559 00:36:37,379 --> 00:36:39,148 That's going to be the biggest thing? 560 00:36:39,172 --> 00:36:41,443 Yeah. If you want to spend your holidays 561 00:36:41,467 --> 00:36:43,486 properly in Cuba, come down to Santiago. 562 00:36:43,510 --> 00:36:45,780 We got a couple things to show to you. 563 00:36:45,804 --> 00:36:47,865 - Cheers, man. - Cheers, man. 564 00:36:47,889 --> 00:36:50,016 For Santiago. 565 00:37:12,956 --> 00:37:15,292 - Hola. - Hola. 566 00:37:18,044 --> 00:37:19,254 Let's do it. 567 00:37:23,883 --> 00:37:26,321 - Hi, I'm Tony. - My name is George. 568 00:37:26,345 --> 00:37:28,030 How long you have been driving a taxi? 569 00:37:28,054 --> 00:37:30,241 For more than 20 years. 570 00:37:30,265 --> 00:37:32,034 Mostly Cubans or tourists? 571 00:37:32,058 --> 00:37:34,329 No, tourists, most of them Spanish, 572 00:37:34,353 --> 00:37:36,956 Italian, even people from Canada. 573 00:37:36,980 --> 00:37:39,292 And all Canadian people. 574 00:37:39,316 --> 00:37:41,919 You from Santiago? 575 00:37:41,943 --> 00:37:45,965 Yes, I was born in Santiago. 576 00:37:45,989 --> 00:37:48,426 I used to live in Russia for six years, 577 00:37:48,450 --> 00:37:50,428 - I started there. - Really? 578 00:37:50,452 --> 00:37:53,556 Yeah, I was really young. And I really enjoyed. 579 00:37:53,580 --> 00:37:55,308 Oh, yeah? It's supposed to be cold there. 580 00:37:55,332 --> 00:37:58,436 Oh, no, can you imagine it's a different Cuba, 581 00:37:58,460 --> 00:38:01,439 and Russian, no, first time I saw snow, 582 00:38:01,463 --> 00:38:05,776 I sent to my mom a lot of pictures holding snow, 583 00:38:05,800 --> 00:38:08,070 throwing snow. - 584 00:38:08,094 --> 00:38:09,697 What were you studying in Russia? 585 00:38:09,721 --> 00:38:11,574 Mechanical engineer. 586 00:38:11,598 --> 00:38:15,286 So you went from engineering to taxi driver? 587 00:38:15,310 --> 00:38:19,582 Yes, yes. In 1990, Russia left us alone. 588 00:38:19,606 --> 00:38:21,709 We got in trouble with the economy, 589 00:38:21,733 --> 00:38:23,735 so I have to change my job. So it looks 590 00:38:26,363 --> 00:38:28,341 like the embargo might end, 591 00:38:28,365 --> 00:38:31,093 a lot of money gonna start coming to Cuba, 592 00:38:31,117 --> 00:38:33,137 you think it's gonna change? 593 00:38:33,161 --> 00:38:36,558 I think the American businessman will invest in Cuba, 594 00:38:36,582 --> 00:38:39,435 and that will be good for everybody. 595 00:38:39,459 --> 00:38:42,230 How about going back to engineering? 596 00:38:42,254 --> 00:38:45,733 Uh, you know, that will depend on how much it would pay. 597 00:38:45,757 --> 00:38:48,009 Right, okay. 598 00:39:03,442 --> 00:39:07,171 What next for Cuba? 599 00:39:07,195 --> 00:39:10,799 Something is coming. 600 00:39:10,823 --> 00:39:13,553 It will come from out there, 601 00:39:13,577 --> 00:39:16,264 but also from within Cuba. 602 00:39:16,288 --> 00:39:20,184 It's already happening, but what is it? 603 00:39:20,208 --> 00:39:23,020 Everybody knows, everybody can feel it, 604 00:39:23,044 --> 00:39:27,507 it smells like freedom, but will it be victory?